Blood, Sweat and Smears

Prolific climber Gary Gibson joins us to share climbing memories.

Sunday 17th November | 09:30 – 11:00 | Brewery Arts Centre - Studio

Some people collect records, some people collect football programmes and some people train spot. Gary collects new routes.

Gary is a well known throughout the UK for his new routing. In fact, with almost 5000 to his name there's a good chance you've climbed one of them! However along the way he's been no stranger to controversy. Here's what the "Who's Who In British Climbing" had to say about him... 

"Looking through Gary Gibson's eyes all you can see is unclimbed rock. Has anyone put up more new routes than Gibson? His passion for climbing new lines is only surpassed by his enthusiasm for claiming them, a suspicion which was confirmed after he confessed to recording some lines he hadn't actually done. So what if he didn't have time to climb all the routes he'd spotted, cleaned and prepared so vigorously? As a consequence Lundy is sinking under the weight of his additions (e.g. Widespread Ocean of Fear E5 6a), Peak limestone has borne the brunt of his drill (Une Crime Passionelle et al), mid Wales and Pen Trywn... all have succumbed to Gibson's hunger for untrammelled ground.

In fact, Gary has spent so long foraging the tops of crags looking for belays that its perhaps not surprising that one day he was to come a cropper, when he toppled from the top of Moat Buttress at Water Cum Jolly, fortunately into the mud below (inspiring the name of the Malcolm Taylor route, A Bigger Splat). A more serious accident occurred when a block hit him on the head at Ban y Gor, necessitating surgery.

Not that it stopped him. Probably nothing could, for Gibson is probably the epitome of the climbing obsessive. Like a dog on diuretics in a lamp post factory Gary has been there, seen it and done a new route on it..."